Carnaval de Santiago de Cuba: July 21-29, 2014

Photo by Humberto Mayol

The origins of the Santiago Carnival go back to the end of the seventeenth century when processions would wind their way through the city streets celebrating the feast day of Santiago (St. James in English), the Patron Saint of the city. During the colonial period, the Spanish authorities granted permission to the black slaves to have their festivities on the Epiphany, putting on their typical music and dances. At the end of the nineteenth century the festivities were extended to the months of June and July in order to celebrate the patron saint days for St. John (June 24), St. Christina (July 24), St. James (July 25), St. Anne (July 26) and St. Peter (June 29). At the beginning of the twentieth century, parading comparsas would represent the different neighborhoods; this tradition is still alive, just like the dances held in the main areas of the city.

The carnivals have always given the people of Santiago a means to release tension, to put aside their worries and dance to the rhythm of conga music. This year, like every year, locals and visitors will keep up the tradition and pour onto the streets in what is considered the most colorful carnival in Cuba. This is one of the most important cultural events in the city: many of its participants spend the whole year preparing their routines for the event. And don’t worry, it’s a family event. The entire family will either participate in the parade or at least help make costumes or embellish floats. One way or another, everyone will do their bit.

Carnival highlights include comparsas (neighborhood dance groups whose choreographies are generally related to Caribbean traditions and the daily life of the people of Santiago) and the processions of decorated floats that will parade, as usual, mainly down Avenida Garzón, where a jury will choose the best. The conga lines are perhaps the most popular element of the carnival, but they are meant to join, not watch.

Right at the end of the procession, mamarrachos (characters in flamboyant, colorful costumes), muñecones (huge papier mache figures) and enmascarados (men and women wearing elaborate masks), accompanied by parranderos who with their drums, congas, rattles, catchy choruses and cornetas chinas liven up the event—if that is even possible. Inserted into carnivals as early as 1916, the corneta china, or Chinese horn, was introduced in Cuba by Chinese immigrants, adding another layer to the festivities.

In recent years, the festivity has extended to other open areas in the city where live music with son, salsa, merengue as well as rock, pop, and disco will be played by the most popular bands of the moment. Free of all commercialization, the Santiago Carnival is truly an opportunity to celebrate this nation’s unique history and culture in a riot of rhythms, drumming and color.

Although many Cuban towns hold their own carnivals, none attracts the crowds of the Santiago Carnival, so don’t miss out as the whole city moves to the rhythm of conga lines, the sound of the corneta china, drums, congas and French drums as well as pots and pans turned into unconventional percussion instruments, which lead dancing crowds down the steep roads of Santiago de Cuba.

Cuba Absolutely


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